Following in the steps of J-Rob

Hello from Bali. While I have not read the book / seen the movie, I realized I am currently mirroring the last 2/3rds of Eat Pray Love. This was unintentional; however, I'd be amenable to bringing home a European yoga babe.

I arrived from Bombay where I stayed with my friend Ashay and his wife Abha at their new home in Malabar Hill. I had been to the city once before for Ashay's wedding a few years back. Bombay is a city like Shanghai, that has grown so quickly and has attracted so much capital, that it was hardly recognizable. Although not a great "tourist" city, a nice place to visit after Nepal, as all we did was hang out and go to nice restaurants. It was interesting that in Rajasthan, beef was nowhere on the menu, but at upmarket spots in Bombay, many places had beef, and in fact I ate two cheeseburgers over the course of the weekend (goodbye Everest weight-loss). Abha and Ashay were terrific hosts and on Saturday, post dinner, which like NYC ended at nearly 12am, we went to Ashay's country club, whose bar was turned into an amazing bar late night by other young members. Bollywood and western dance turned were blaring in the wood paneled room- this was more Dorrians than the Racquet Club. Everyone was dancing, taking the odd break to go out on terrace to smoke or go to bar for another drink. At around 2am, about ten of us went back to Ashay's for late night karaoke session. When Journey's Don't stop believing came on, knew that this was a city I could call home. Unfortunately, still not used to city-lifestyle from Nepal, woke up at 8am after sleeping for 4 hrs. People left at 5am but I passed out beforehand. The nice thing about no drinking while trekking was no hangovers! After another day of hanging out and having brunch with Ashay's friends, who I had met during his wedding, we went to watch the Indian premier league cricket finals and I was off to the airport to fly to Bali.

In Bali, I'm staying at the Ashram Ghandi. It's on the ocean about 2 hrs north of the touristy southern area. While accommodations are simple, I'm learning yoga and participating during prayers and other Ashram activities. Ive attached a copy of my daily schedule. Also, the food is amazing. Pretty incredible that room and board here is only about 25 dollars per night! Have another 2 days here and then off to Gili Islands, then Borneo, then Java, then aspen and then back to my adoring fans. Hard to imagine I only have about 2 weeks left!

EPL,
Jacob

Maybe Bob Seeger was wrong

After spending 2 weeks in pristine mountains, view of Kathmandu changed a bit. Very dirty city with Tons of smog and dust. Worse than beijing 12 years ago. When i got back to Yak and Yeti, Wanted to send trekking gear home to consolidate bags for next legs of the journey. First stop, the Business center was confused. When they finally understood the request, they said better to do tomorrow because DhL was closed. After prodding, they admitted Dhl didnt close for an hour, and agter making a phone call, someone supposedlybfrom dhl shows up in 30 minutes. We go over the items I seek to send and he comes out with sheet and suggests package will cost about 400 dollars! We go to weigh items, and since he only has 5 kilo scale we improvise and go to health club and step on scale there. We then begin finishing paperwork and confirm the price, now $350. He then asks for cash. I tell him credit card only and when I push, it becomes clear be does not actually work at dhl. He curriers things for the hotel. Not willing to trust him that my package will be sent once cash is given, I tell him lets go to physical location. He then motions for me to try to ride on back of his motorcycle, but with a big bag, no helmet and tenuous nature of Kathmandu streets, we get cab instead. We go to dhl store 5 min drive away. My happiness is short lived, when I find out despite the "visa accepted sign" dominating the entrance, the guy working the desk is new and has nO idea how to work a credit card machine. It's creeping towards 5pm and these guys aRe useless. The new guy suggests an idea though. Go to another dhl location closer to airport, about 30 min aWay. Faced with schlepping my bag to Indonesia, as I was leaving the next am, I got in new cab with currier and set off for new location. We then get stuck in traffic, surrounded by parade or protest, the roads lined with riot police. Our car is at standstill and it's creeping towards 530pm when dhl closes. We then catch a break as the street is cleared by police and we get to dhl with minutes to spare.This location is actually helpful, but they don't have proper tape and must send out for some. In meantime, they need to check each item, and I'm forced to create list and document each pair of shorts, socks, and thermal article. 20 min later, we complete paperwork and I head bAck to yak and yetti. Now have fingers crossed that clothes get back to NYC.

After stay on back end of hike realize that nepal is in serious trouble.

Nepal in mountains is great. Kathmandu not do much. Lights flickering suggest an unstable grid, even in our hotel, where there was No hot water until 5 pm. Tons of riot police everywhere. Country is On verge if descending into chaos and I'm glad I got out when I did. Unsure how long it will last before something drastic happens. When monarchy ended, left huge void and lots of factions trying to pull country and constitution together. Nothing is getting repaired here and no growth like In Indian cities. Currency devalued over 10 pct last week when i was trekking. The Country has lots to offer but concerned Maoists or military will take over soon if the country doesn't get it's proverbial shit together asAp. Never felt like I was in a city on the brink like I did in Kathmandu. Everyone there was so nice though that I hope they fix their issues.

Back at sea level

First post in a while. While i kept journal of my everest base camp trek, will post day-by-day thoughts after. Figured i would write overview and include some pics first. Had amazing trip and highly recommend Everest base camp for others. Had amazing guide, Lakhpa, who paced us well and was very knowledgeable. It's some of the most beautiful scenery I have ever seen. Hiking around plethora of 20k+ foot peaks is impressive, especially when most of the trek is higher than any part of continental USA. Trip was not overly challenging outside of the days when we were over 16000 feet. Felt Really greAt to be on trail for two weeks. Each day when we reached a new village, felt sense of accomplishment usually lacking on vacations. Also, from 2 weeks of exercise, I Feel much healthier than when i stArted. For those who dont like to "rough it", outside of the last 5 days, most nights spent in lodges which while spartan are nicely appointed with clean water, beds and decent food.

One or goals was to turn phone off and do some thinking and head-clearing. Hiking without distraction of music or tv was great opportunity.

While I will post more in depth info and stories, wanted to include a Few highlights:

Scenery is truly striking. Have been in mountains before, but scale of Himalayas is extraordinary. When at base camp of AMA Dablam, you are already at 15k feet and looking up, the mountain in front of you is another 7 empire state buildings tall!

Group dynamic was excellent. Everyone got along and was super nice. I was youngest by about 20 years and oldest was Frank "the tank" Brophy who was 77! I hope I'm in that good of shape in 50 years.

Got very lucky with weather. Rained a bit afternoon of first day and didn't really experience rain again for next two weeks.

Acclimated very well. Only had issues when we climbed kala Pathar (18200 feet) mostly bc I was dehydrated. Realized when I was that high up that high altitude mountaineering was not for me. While I loved the daily hikes, fine staying under 20k feet elevation.

We were in Everest base camp at right time as many people were submitting then. Met a few famous climbers, including Conrad Anker who was super friendly. Seems as though mountain is getting overrun with Sandy Pitman types though. Spent some time with both people who submitted and failed, all of which complained about overcrowding, and had to step over multiple dead bodies on their ascents and descents as too many unqualified people who can write $100k check are summitting.

Realized we needed to add more humor and competition to the trip so I purchased a yak bell for the group. If you were last one to a meal, you had to wear yak bell at the meal and carry to next meal. Included. Pic of Betty after she Was last to breakfast.

Had snake / (l)lama encounter at famous monestary of Tingboche. Attached a pic. Big hitter the lama.

Read atlas shrugged which I enjoyed and gave new inspiration to try to do something as opposed to Passively investing or trading. The career related thought was also echoed in satisfaction of completing a difficult trek that required hard work. Feltbgood to accomplish something. What i specifically want to do - im still not sure.

Flight to / from Lukla is nuts. Never comforting when you look in cockpit and warnings are flashing "terrain ahead" did not crash tho and luckily didnt fly Agni airways which had crash while we were on trail!

After trip, headed back to Kathmandu and then Bombay to see friends, Ashay and Abha Shah. Will post updates on next day or so. Just got to Bali and will be in Indonesia for next two weeks!

-snake on planes

That bob Seeger was right...

Hello from kathmandu,
From the last post, max and i went to shimla which was great. Very different from rest of india. Cool temp, less frenetic, great scenery of the himalayas and no pollution. Very in-India like; felt a bit like swiss alps or Vermont with higher mountains.

On our first full day, Max and I went for 12km hike through the surrounding forest with sanjeev our guide. He remarked that we were some of the fastest guests he had led, which boosted our self esteem until we realized the rest of the hotel guests were either honeymooners or retirees. The next day, max took a personal day and with Sanjeev i took 18km hike w 3k elevation. Challenging but scenery was beautiful and got great practice and techniques from Sanjeev who is a mountaineering instructor in north India. I've been a bit nervous for this upcoming trek and this hike did a great job of installing (false?) confidence.

The next day we prepared to leave.

However, Max got nervous for our flight out when he met people in pool who alerted him to Kingfisher Air's precarious financial position and India's lack of Chapter 11. As it was described, companies just run out of money and go away. Just what you are looking for in a airline that needs to spend on maintenance. To make matters worse or better, depending on if you are a religious man, There seemed to be some high priest on our flight who had a phalanx of bodyguards and people dropping rose pedals everywhere. Since we were close to Kashmir region, the airport which only had one flt per day had tons of military with automatic weapons all over the airport protecting this guy. While max was unsettled, the alternative, a 9 hr drive was out of the question. We actually sat next to the man, who had an awesome orange hat and we all made it safely back to Delhi - win / win!

When in Delhi, max and I hung out eating italian and chinese food until I bid him farewell. Hes back on the trading floor where he feels most comfortable. And I went to Kathmandu!

So I'm in Nepal and just met my group. Everyone seems very nice and older than me so hopefully I won't embarrass myself by being slower than the two 50 year old women.... Tomorrow at 6am I fly 20 min to lukla and begin my trek. The flight is considered one of the worlds most dangerous but is short, so good or bad it won't be drawn out. Will post pics of the runway over the next day or so, wifi permitting. When I asked someone how it compared to the approach at st barths they shot me a blank stare.

I should have wifi for the first few days but if not will post after the trek. I also have been told there are outlets for the first few tea houses so im bringing my cpap machine! I imagine i may break the world record for highest treated sleep apnea patient.

Overall I'm pumped to be here abd start this next leg. Fingers crossed the weather holds and my 1.5 lungs withstand mt evie 's wrath.

- mountain snake

A woman's most precious jewel is a happy husband and other thoughts from Jaipur

Speaking to a group of Australian women at the hotel in Jaipur, one mentioned that she would be attending a cricket match that evening. Never having been to a cricket match, i was excited to take one in live. And while Max did not want to go, I figured what the heck and although ticketless, made plans to meet Di (an owner of several surf shops in Australia ) and Puren, the off-duty staff member joining her outside of the hotel at 630pm.

We took a tuk tuk, which those who have been to bangkok are famiar with - it's basically a giant motorized tricycle cab without walls. We arrived 90 min early to check out the scene and secure me a ticket. As you will see in below picture, while there was a box office sign, there did not seem to be any box office. After much discussion puren found the "box" office; the box office was a literally a 6 inch by 6 inch hole in a concrete wall beneath the sign. Puren picked me up a ticket and we went to find our entrance which took another 40 min. Without puren, I'm probably not getting a ticket or finding the right entrance- id be heading back to max with my tail between my legs. When we finally found the correct one, we had to go through El Al esque security. We had to show contents of our wallets, give all coins and I even lost my mini bottle of purel sanitizer. TSA can learn something from these people. I wasn't sure If this security was due to the threat of terrorism or holliganism but there was no turning back once we were in.

The ambience was electric albeit more tame than I had expected, perhaps in part bc league cricket play (the IPL) is relatively new here and rivalries are not yet very deep- this match was between the Rajasthan Royals and the Delhi Daredevils. Fans were very friendly and many talked to us about our home and what we were doing there- we were the only westerners in our section. Cheers were loud and in between Overs there was a great mix of Indian pop and western dance music blaring.

My experience was made exponentially better by Di, who was able to explain all of the rules and Nuances of a game I had thought to be the most boring in the world. While I can now follow the sport I don't think it will be replacing basketball or football for me.

Leaving was easy as puren had arranged the tuk tuk driver to take us home, but not before stopping off at a local Hindu temple for an 11pm prayer. Bells were ringing and the place was packed and Di and I were the only non-locals for blocks. It felt great to attend the late night prayers and get outside the normal tourist track.

Overall Jaipur was soso, with the highlight being the cricket excursion and learning about Hinduism from our guide. Tourist-wise we also visited the amber fort where rode an elephant and the much hyped monkey temple. While there were lots of monkeys, many were sleeping when we were there and I did not have an opportunity to procure food to put in max's pockets. We did see a guru meditating in a pool for hours.

Lastly,a great anectode from our guide:

When asked about all of the jewelry Indian women have, our guide had this choice response. "Indian women love fine jewels but their most precious jewel is a happy husband." ladies take note!

Next stop Shimla, where I will belatedly attempt to train for my upcoming trek. Hope all is well with everyone.

Jacob